Upside: Affordable; compact; comparatively easy to set up. 
Downside: Won't rock the house; spotty build quality.

Samsung HT-X30T

Budget-priced HTIBs almost always feature tiny satellite speakers and subwoofers. Sound quality isn't always stellar, but some low-end HTIBs sound pretty decent. Power ratings fall within the 25 to 60W per channel range. That's enough to fill a small room with sound; just don't expect massive loudness capability from a wee HTIB. Surround formats are limited to basic Dolby Digital/Pro Logic I/II and DTS, while connectivity options are typically restricted to just one analog composite-A/V inputs. If you have an HDTV and are looking for the best possible picture quality, make sure the DVD player has component-video output.

Upside: Elegant appearance; features galore; comparatively easy to set up. 
Downside: Still won't rock the house; limited bass output; sleek-looking electronics usually have limited connectivity options.

A number of manufacturers offer sleek HTIBs with petite satellites (5 inches tall or even smaller). At the other extreme, you can buy HTIBs with tall yet incredibly slender tower a.k.a tallboy speakers. Some HTIBs tuck their amplifiers inside the subwoofer, which allows the manufacturer to trim down the receiver/DVD player component to truly svelte sizes.

While multi-disc players are becoming increasingly rare, the latest models now sport a couple of standard features. These range from 1080p DVD upscaling to USB host for multimedia playback and multiformat DVD compatibility. Another popular addition is automated surround sound setup, though Blu-ray support has yet to catch on prime time.

Upside: Solid build quality; features similar standalone components; generous connectivity. 
Downside: More involved setup; clunky component styling; speaker packages usually far below the quality (and price) of separate speakers.

Rather than combine the receiver and the DVD player in one compact unit, some manufacturers offer HTIBs built around separate components. This approach forfeits most of the space-saving allure of the classic HTIB, but there are performance advantages to the separates route.

Onkyo HTS-3100

With component-based HTIBs, their larger size lets designers fit in more power and significantly greater connectivity options. Component systems provide inputs for a larger number of external sources, such as settop box, DVR, and gaming console, than one-piece HTIBs. A few companies sell receiver/DVD player combos that don't come with speaker packages, which afford you the flexibility of selecting exactly the speakers that work for you.

Upside: Space-saving HTIB design still incorporates cutting-edge technology. 
Downside: Sometimes expensive--you might as well buy first-class separates.

Marantz ES7001

The booming popularity of HTIBs shows no sign of abating, which explains why most cutting-edge trends eventually find their way to upmarket systems. The latest development are virtual surround and Blu-ray. The former dodges the "five speakers plus subwoofer" rule to create enveloping sound using fewer speakers, while the latter supports onboard playback of these HD audio-visual software. There are also some which cover Super-Audio CD and/or DVD-Audio and others that deploy wireless rear speakers. Speaking of speakers, 7.1-channel HTIBs are also available.

Upside: Nowadays entry-level receivers have just about everything anybody needs for a home theater. 
Downside: Lightweight build quality; inflated power ratings; basic video-processing.

Entry-level receivers can usually do pretty much everything. Almost all support Dolby-EX/DTS-ES surround processing and uncompressed 5.1 digital audio signals (linear PCM), while a handful does studio-grade Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD. Thought they are capable of reproducing eight-channel surround sound, you maybe better off with a standard 5.1-speaker package for tight quarters. The extra rear-surround channels are more relevant for larger rooms to cover blind spots, as well as supporting newer 6.1 and 7.1-encoded movies.

Power ratings run from 50 to 75W per channel. In this price range, many of the ratings are inflated, so the specs aren't a good way to judge real-world performance.

Connectivity options are usually adequate for most systems and they include multiple digital audio, component-video inputs and even HDMI switching/repeating. Most, if not all, models also have discreet 5.1-channel inputs for DVD-Audio/SACD. Many of the recent models have also caught up with the Apple iPod fever, shipped with inbuilt or optional docking provision to enable direct multimedia playback.

Expect automated surround sound calibration as standard for all 2008 models, too, while only a handful of low-to-midrange offerings will offer 1080p-upscaling via HDMI. The former analyzes your speakers and room acoustics, then automatically adjust for optimum sound quality at the listening position.

Upside: Features galore; plentiful connectivity options; midline receivers are more solidly constructed than entry-level models. 
Downside: More expensive; systems can be fairly huge and hog too much shelf space.

Besides decoding just about every Dolby and DTS standard and hi-resolution surround sound under the sun, some THX Select 2-certified midrange receivers also offer added audio enhancements. Some of these functions include THX re-equalization, timbre matching and adaptive decorrelation. All these are designed to accurately recreate large theater-oriented movie soundtracks in smaller home environments.

Also, thanks to their superior digital-processing capabilities, midpriced receivers offer better synthesized surround modes a.k.a. DSPs such as Jazz Club, Rock Club, Cathedral, and so on that can be used to "open up" the sound of stereo recordings.

At this category, advanced video-processings such as full 1080p-upconversion, sharpening and noise reduction are almost given. Likewise for other value-added propositions such as programmable remotes for manipulating TVs and other A/V components. Some expensive models even bundle touchscreen universal controller to provide an even higher level of user customization.

A full suite of front-panel analog and digital audio input jack will be available on top of everything we have mentioned for the entry-levels. You will also have the best of both worlds with a generous spread of HDMIs, plus version 1.3 Deep Color (think richer hues) and Lip Sync (audio-video synchronisation) compatibility.

Upside: At this price range, expect honest power ratings, up-to-the-second features, and great sound quality. 
Downside: An overabundance of features can mean overly complex setup chores.

In a perfect world, power ratings would give some indication of the loudness potential of A/V receiver. But unfortunately, not every 100W per channel receiver is created equal. What's inside does make a difference, and beefy power transformers and audiophile-grade capacitors are not only heavy but also expensive; that's part of what you're paying for here.

Higher-end receivers usually offer true multiroom capability. The most advanced multiroom receivers let you control not only the volume but also the source in another room. You might even listen to a different source, say, a CD in one room and the radio in the other room.

The flagship models usually wear souped-up THX-Ultra 2 badge and are engineered ground up with sufficient reserve power to serve up large entertainment rooms. To further differentiate this certification from its THX Select2-equivalent, additional advanced audio processing and three new surround modes are included. The latter comprises THX Ultra 2 Cinema, THX music and THX game.

To match the above audio functionalities, many vendors have outfitted equally competent video components into their premium offerings. An example of such popular implementation is the videophile-grade Silicon Optix HQV processor renowned for its smooth artifact-free HD scaling. Rounding up the value-added bits are wireless multimedia streaming, onboard USB playback, Internet radio, and etc.

Upside: Up-to-the-second features, upgrade flexibility, enhanced music playback. 
Downside: Difficult to set up and configure, pricey.

An A/V pre-pro is a pre-amplifier and processor housed in a single package. It performs near-identical functions of a receiver except in two major areas: Audio amplification and radio playback. These are not supported onboard and an external power amplifier is mandatory to complete the kit, though a radio tuner deck is optional.

The segregation of these functions theoretically minimizes interference between electronic circuits which can be a challenge for the jam-packed receiver. The extra room also enables quiet passive cooling and leeway for better internal layout. An example includes PC-like swappable cards for future expansion capability.

Here you can easily upgrade to a beefier amp for more reserve power, but the tradeoff is the additional cost in wiring up the two decks. Putting aside the quality and varying prices of these interconnects, the amount required is directly associated with the number of audio channels. The more channels you plan to run, the higher the cost.

Upside: Honest power ratings, great sound quality, wide selection available. 
Downside: Fairly huge and hogs too much shelf space, pricey.

Power amplifiers can be broadly categorized into three groups: Mono block, stereo and multichannel. Each performs one, two and more channels of audio amplifications. To ensure ample reserve power, most feature one or more high-quality toroidal transformers and oversized capacitors. The former are rare in lower-end receivers due to the space crunch for accommodating all the required electronics.

To facilitate ease of operation such as automated powering up and shutting down, electric trigger are normally found on the rear. This allows a connected pre-pro or receiver to remotely control the amplifier without manual intervention via a miniplug interconnect.

Another new class of amplifiers have surfaced in recent years. These digital or class "D" models run cooler than their analog counterparts, thanks to their higher power efficiency. Form factor-wise, they can be up to a third the size of the usual offerings.

Before shopping for speakers, try to imagine where you're going to put them in your room. Speakers can be placed on floor stands, hung on wall brackets or placed on furniture. Subwoofers typically sound best in room corners or near the left- or right-front speakers.

The front three--left, center, and right--speakers usually sound best when positioned with their tweeters elevated to the same height as a seated listener's ears. In any case, try to keep the center speaker near the same height as the left and right speakers.

You can place speakers on shelves or on/in a low cabinet or entertainment center. Some speakers are better suited to this arrangement than others. "Acoustic suspension"-sealed satellites are the most appropriate. Next best are ported speakers--as long as the ports are located on the front of the cabinet. However, speakers with rear-mounted ports won't perform at their peak when placed inside a piece of furniture or too close to a wall.

As for the rear-channel surround speakers, they usually sound best when positioned two or more feet higher than the front speakers. However, high-fidelity DVD-Audio and Super Audio CD music will sound best when surround speakers are placed at the same height (ear level) as the front speakers.

For optimal 6.1 Dolby Digital-EX/DTS-ES and 7.1 Dolby TrueHD/DTS-HD playback, you will need additional surround back speaker. Most receivers are capable of "driving" a pair of these which are supposed to be installed behind the sweet spot to reinforce ambience effects.

If you'd rather not deal with the clutter of speaker cabinets and stringing six or more cables across your room, check out the few HTIBs that use advanced signal processing and special purpose-built speakers to reduce the speaker count to two or three. Unfortunately, sound quality and surround effects won't replicate true multichannel speaker systems.

The effectiveness of such a "virtual" solution will also depend on actual room layout. This is particularly critical for a system which "bounces" sound off walls to recreate enveloping surround effects. An opening such as an aisle or window could alter the traveling sound route, hence preventing the system from operating as intended by its designers.

The dream of wireless high-performance speakers is still unfulfilled, but a few manufacturers offer "wireless" speakers that receive signals via radio waves or infrared light--great but they still need to be plugged into the wall for AC power. Battery-powered wireless speakers just won't cut it in any sort of quality-oriented surround system.

You can choose from miniature 4-inch-tall satellites or move up to hulking tower speakers. There's a size and shape for every taste. While the best small speakers can sound awfully good, they produce less bass and have loudness limitations compared with larger speakers. Full-size, 38-inch-tall or larger tower speakers frequently offer the best overall sound, though midsize 12- to 15-inch-tall bookshelf speakers may be the best compromise for sound-conscious buyers who can't accept the visual intrusion of full-size speakers.

The same logic applies to the vitally important center speaker, which is responsible for reproducing a large part of your DVD's dialog, effects, and music. The smallest 7-inch-wide models are the least visually intrusive but most sonically compromised.

A standard 5.1 system uses a pair of surround speakers, located to the sides of the main listening position. The newer Dolby-EX/DTS-ES 6.1 and Dolby TrueHD/DTS-HD 7.1 systems add either one or two surround speakers, centered behind the main listening position.

Subwoofers supply deeper bass than satellite speakers. Once again, cabinet and driver size play a large part in predicting bass quality and quantity. Lower-end HTIB models are called passive, meaning the receiver's amplifier powers the subwoofer. Higher-quality subwoofers are powered, as they have their own onboard power amps.

Individual speakers come in three flavors:

1. One-way: Woofer only

2. Two-way: Woofer and tweeter

3. Three-way: Woofer, tweeter, and midrange

Generally speaking, two-way speakers produce better sound than the one-way designs found on many entry-level HTIB systems. And three-way speakers usually sound better than two-ways. Some designs add one or more extra woofers, though multiple woofer, or midranges don't increase the "ways" of a speaker--a speaker with two woofers, one midrange, and one tweeter is still a three-way speaker. Multidriver speakers are usually pricier than speakers with fewer drivers.

Low-profile on-wall speakers are the perfect sonic solution for wall-mounted plasma and flat-panel TVs. Some models are designed to visually complement wall-mounted TVs. On-wall speakers can also be a better-sounding alternative to in-wall speakers. For apartment dwellers, on-wall speakers free up floor space.

Most lower-priced speakers use spring-loaded connectors, which may not provide the most secure grip on the wires. Binding posts are better and work with bare wire leads, spades (U-shaped connectors), or handiest of all, banana jacks (bowed, banana-shaped male jacks). You can get banana jacks at specialty audio stores or your neighborhood D.I.Y. shops.

Some higher-end speakers have biwire capability--two sets of female connectors. One set of connectors are for the tweeter, and another set hooks up to the woofer; many cable manufacturers offer special biwire cables. Biwiring may produce slightly better sound with more detail and higher-definition bass than the standard single-wire method.

Question: Multibrand matching--can I use my old speakers and new ones together in a surround system?

Mixing a different brand of surround speaker or subwoofer with your stereo speakers might be a risky proposition. Center speakers are the trickiest; mismatching the left-center-right speakers may result in jarring timbre shifts when the sound is panned across the front three speakers. Matching surround speakers is less critical, but in any case, try to arrange a home audition.

Question: Unibrand matching--do all JBL speakers go together? Can I match big towers and small surrounds?

Chances are same-brand speakers of a given vintage will sonically match, but when in doubt, check with the company's customer service people. And sure, you can match large and small speakers in one system.

Question: What's the lowdown on subwoofer matching?

Matching subwoofer to satellites is in some ways the easiest chore. The safest bet is to stick with the same brand. One rule of thumb is to mate small sats with small subs; if the sats have 4-inch or smaller woofers, better stick with a fairly small sub with an 8-inch woofer. Larger sats will do their best with larger subs that have 10- or 12-inch woofers.

If you're going to listen to more music than watching DVDs, focus your speaker budget on the best left-/right-front speakers you can afford: 30 to 40 percent of the whole enchilada upfront. When the balance shifts over to more DVDs than music, distribute the budget equally over the 5.1, 6.1 or 7.1 speakers. Monetary issues aside, you should also narrow down your choices here based on space availability. Large floorstander should be avoided in tight quarters, particularly those rear-ported models. You may be better off with a compact bookshelf equivalent in this case, though additional funds have to be allocated for a well-dampened speaker stand.

Dynaudio Focus 220

First, matching the treble/midrange/bass balance of the center channel to the front speakers is key, and it's usually recommended to opt for offerings from the same brand and series. For users setting up a 6.1 home theater system, another viable alternative is to invest in a pair of bookshelf speakers. One of each can be deployed for the front and surround center, respectively. Secondly, if the left/right speakers are fairly large, try to get the largest possible center speaker. Try not to rely too much on the subwoofer to provide the bass for the center speaker. Small center speakers always sound, well, small.

Mission M6ci

There are two types of surround designs:

1. Monopole
The conventional surround speaker looks like a standard satellite speaker. These monopole speakers aim the sound straight ahead. Most HTIBs and entry-level speaker packages use this type of surround speaker. They will also work well in higher-end systems and SACD/DVD-Audio-oriented music-surround systems.

2. Dipole/bipole

Speakers with this type of design push sound out to the sides. Their distinctive V-shaped front panels make them easy to identify. These speakers create more diffused surround sound than the monopoles. They're best suited to DVD movies and less desirable for multichannel music. The dipoles are wired "out-of-phase", which give a non-localizable soundfield that is ideal for ambient effects. The opposite applies for the bipoles, characterized by a wide distinctly localizable soundfield.

Energy C-R100

Some subwoofers are better suited to providing home theater oomph than musical bass. Home theater bombast can be more of a quantity-over-quality issue, but some very "musical" subs lack the gravitas necessary for maximum home theater impact. Of course, models that excel on both tend to be the most expensive. Some of the higher-end models are equipped with overload protection circuit designed to protect the woofer driver and companion electronics. They are highly recommended if you have the tendency to watch your movies loud or are an avid fan of explosive action-packed Hollywood blockbusters.

SVS PB12-Plus

Before you buy any speaker wire, place the speakers and the receiver in the positions where they're likely to wind up, then carefully measure the distances. Remember to measure up and over door frames or windows. Just to be on the safe side, add at least one extra meter to each cable run; coming up short is no fun, and most stores won't allow you to return cut-to-length cables.

In most cases, standard zip cord, available in any hardware store, will do nicely. If you need to run long (more than 20ft) lengths between the receiver and the speakers, try to get at least 16-gauge wire (the lower the number, the thicker the wire). Specialty brands of speaker wire are more expensive but may deliver slightly better sound quality.