Upside: Affordable; compact; comparatively easy to set up. 
Downside: Won't rock the house; spotty build quality.

Budget-priced HTIBs almost always feature small speakers and subwoofers. Sound quality isn't always stellar, but some low-end HTIBs sound pretty decent.

Power ratings fall within the 25-to-50-watt-per-channel range. That's enough to fill a small room with sound; just don't expect massive loudness capability from a wee HTIB.

Samsung HT-P40

Surround formats are limited to basic Dolby Digital/Pro Logic II and DTS/DTS Neo:6, while connectivity options are typically restricted to just two or three A/V inputs. If you have an HD-ready TV and are looking for the best possible picture quality, make sure the DVD player has component/progressive video outputs. Have a large collection of videotapes? A few HTIBs combine a receiver, a DVD player, and a VCR into a single component.

Upside: Elegant appearance; features galore; comparatively easy to set up. 
Downside: Still won't rock the house; limited bass output; sleek-looking electronics usually have limited connectivity options.

A number of manufacturers offer sleek HTIBs with petite satellites (5 inches tall or even smaller). At the other extreme, you can buy HTIBs with tall yet incredibly slender floor-standing speakers. Some HTIBs tuck their amplifiers inside the subwoofer, which allows the manufacturer to trim down the receiver/DVD player component to truly svelte sizes.

Single-play and DVD-changer models are available. Single-play models are the most compact and smoothest-running, and they tend to be the most reliable. The changers, which typically hold three to six discs, may be either single-tray-loading or carousel-style mechanisms. Tray changers can be almost as compact as the single-play models, though they're usually noisier and slower as they go about their disc-changing operations. Carousel models are faster and quieter, but the drawback is they grab a lot of shelf space; many are 17 inches wide and 15 to 18 inches deep.

Upside: Solid build quality; features similar standalone components; generous connectivity. 
Downside: More involved setup; clunky component styling; speaker packages usually far below the quality (and price) of separate speakers.

Rather than combine the receiver and the DVD player in one compact unit, some manufacturers offer HTIBs built around separate components. This approach forfeits most of the space-saving allure of the classic HTIB, but there are performance advantages to the separates route.

Onkyo HT-S667C

With component-based HTIBs, their larger size lets designers fit in more power and significantly greater connectivity options. Component systems provide inputs for a larger number of external sources, such as satellite, VCRs, and cassette decks, than one-piece HTIBs. A few companies sell receiver/DVD player combos that don't come with speaker packages, which affords you the flexibility of selecting exactly the speakers that work for you.

Upside: Space-saving HTIB design still incorporates cutting-edge technology. 
Downside: Sometimes expensive--you might as well buy first-class separates.

The booming popularity of HTIBs shows no sign of abating, which explains why most cutting-edge trends eventually find their way to upmarket systems.

Niro Two6.1 home-theater system

The latest development is DVD recorders. These HTIBs can record TV programs and dub recordings from a video camera onto DVD-R. More and more HTIBs now feature Super-Audio CD and/or DVD-Audio capability. Some high-end models, such as Niro's Two6.1 (pictured), dodge the "five speakers plus subwoofer" rule and create surround sound with fewer speakers. Some even use wireless rear speakers. Speaking of speakers, 6.1-channel HTIBs with Dolby EX/DTS ES processing are also available.

Upside: Nowadays, entry-level receivers have just about everything anybody needs for home theater. 
Downside: Lightweight build quality; inflated power ratings; poorly designed remotes.

Entry-level receivers can usually do pretty much everything. A good number offer 6.1-channel Dolby EX/DTS ES surround processing--but if your living space is tight, you'll probably use a standard 5.1-speaker package. The 6.1 models add one or two extra rear-surround channels over the standard 5.1 array to create a truly enveloping soundstage in large rooms.

Power ratings run from 50 to 100 watts per channel. In this price range, many of the ratings are inflated, so the specs aren't a good way to judge real-world performance.

Connectivity options are usually adequate for most systems, and they include multiple digital inputs and even component-video switching. Most models also have 5.1-channel inputs for DVD-Audio/SACD.

Upside: Features galore; plentiful connectivity options; midline receivers are more solidly constructed than entry-level models. 
Downside: More expensive; systems can be fairly huge and hog too much shelf space.

Beyond the now standard Dolby Digital/DTS and 6.1-channel Dolby EX/DTS ES surround-processing modes, some midrange receivers offer the latest trick from DTS: 96/24. This technology is similar to DVD-Audio in that it offers high-resolution 96/24 5.1-channel sound, but it also offers full-motion video capability (DVD-A has limited video capacity). Another advantage is that you don't need to buy a new DVD-Audio player; DTS 96/24 will work with most DVD players.

Also, thanks to their superior digital processing capabilities, midpriced receivers offer better synthesized surround modes such as Jazz Club, Rock Club, Cathedral, and so on that can be used to "open up" the sound of stereo recordings.

Onscreen displays (using your TV) ease surround setup and general navigation chores. Programmable remotes control TVs and other A/V components, while more-expensive models employ LCDs or keypads to make universal remote setup easier.

Better receivers also have more inputs, including front-panel digital inputs, digital monitor outputs, and more than one VCR/DVD-R recording loop. If you're a satellite radio fan, you might also want to consider buying an XM-ready receiver. Add a low-cost XM Connect-and-Play module such as the Audiovox CNP1000, and you can receive satellite radio on your receiver. It reduces the clutter in your equipment rack and can be easily connected to new compatible receivers whenever you upgrade.

Upside: At this price range, expect honest power ratings, up-to-the-second features, and great sound quality. 
Downside: An overabundance of features can mean overly complex setup chores.

In a perfect world, power ratings would give some indication of the loudness potential of A/V receiver. But unfortunately, not every 100-watt-per-channel receiver is created equal. What's inside does make a difference, and beefy power transformers and capacitors are not only heavy but also expensive; that's part of what you're paying for here. And while the Lucasfilm/THX certification is a little bit of a marketing gimmick, it's usually a sign of more-honest power ratings.

Higher-end receivers usually offer A/B-speaker switching or, better yet, true multiroom capability. The most advanced multiroom receivers let you control not only the volume but also the source in another room. You might even listen to a different source--say, a CD in one room and the radio in the other room.

A particularly useful new feature is automatic room tuning and setup. Receivers equipped with this capability can analyze your speakers and room acoustics, then automatically adjust for optimum sound quality at the listening position. The most advanced models utilize highly versatile parametric equalization.

Unfortunately, most Super Audio CD and DVD-Audio players don't provide adequate bass management for small sub/sat systems, but some of the latest high-end receivers now perform that function for the players. Bass management is vitally important because it redirects bass from the satellite channels to the subwoofer.

Those with high-def home theaters will be interested in receivers with HDMI capabilities. In theory, there's a lot to like about HDMI: it's all digital, it has the capability to carry multichannel audio and high-definition video signals on a single cable, and it's small, with a plug that is roughly the same size as USB. Toss in an inexpensive cable or adapter, and HDMI is even backward compatible with its digital video predecessor, DVI. The first wave of HDMI-compatible receivers was hobbled with one compromise or another, but newer models are finally delivering the goods at reasonable price points. If you do go the HDMI route, look for HDMI switching (multiple digital video sources); upconversion of analog sources to HDMI, so your older components will pass video through a single output; and full bandwidth support, the ability to pass surround-sound bit streams and full HD video.

Before shopping for speakers, try to imagine where you're going to put them in your room. Speakers can be placed on floor stands, hung on wall brackets, or placed on furniture. Subwoofers typically sound best in room corners or near the left- or right-front speakers.

The front three--left, center, and right--speakers usually sound best when positioned with their tweeters elevated to the same height as a seated listener's ears. In any case, try to keep the center speaker near the same height as the left and right speakers.

You can place speakers on shelves or on/in a low cabinet or entertainment center. Some speakers are better suited to this arrangement than others. "Acoustic suspension" sealed satellites are the most appropriate. Next best are ported speakers--as long as the ports are located on the front of the cabinet. However, speakers with rear-mounted ports won't perform at their peak when placed inside a piece of furniture.

As for the rear-channel surround speakers, they usually sound best when positioned three or more feet higher than the front speakers. However, high-fidelity DVD-Audio and Super Audio CD music will sound best when surround speakers are placed at the same height (ear level) as the front speakers.

If you'd rather not deal with the clutter of speaker cabinets and stringing six or more cables across your room, check out the few HTIBs that use advanced multichannel speakers to reduce the speaker count to two or three. Unfortunately, sound quality and surround effects won't replicate true multichannel speaker systems.

The dream of wireless high-performance speakers is still unfulfilled, but a few manufacturers offer "wireless" speakers that receive signals via radio waves or infrared light--great but they still need to be plugged into the wall for AC power. Battery-powered wireless speakers just won't cut it in any sort of quality-oriented surround system.

You can choose from miniature 4-inch-tall satellites or move up to hulking tower speakers. There's a size and shape for every taste. While the best small speakers can sound awfully good, they produce less bass and have loudness limitations compared to larger speakers. Full-size, 38-inch-tall or larger tower speakers frequently offer the best overall sound, though midsize 12- to 15-inch-tall bookshelf speakers may be the best compromise for sound-conscious buyers who can't accept the visual intrusion of full-size speakers.

The same logic applies to the vitally important center speaker, which is responsible for reproducing a large part of your DVD's dialogue, effects, and music. The smallest 7-inch-wide models are the least visually intrusive but most sonically compromised.

A standard 5.1 system uses a pair of surround speakers, located to the sides of the main listening position. The newer Dolby EX/DTS ES 6.1 systems add either one or two surround speakers, centered behind the main listening position.

Subwoofers supply deeper bass than satellite speakers. Once again, cabinet and driver size play a large part in predicting bass quality and quantity. Lower-end HTIB models are called passive, meaning the receiver's amplifier powers the subwoofer. Higher-quality subwoofers are powered, as they have their own onboard power amps.

Individual speakers come in three flavors:

1. One-way: woofer only

2. Two-way: woofer and tweeter

3. Three-way: woofer, tweeter, and midrange

Generally speaking, two-way speakers produce better sound than the one-way designs found on many entry-level HTIB systems. And three-way speakers usually sound better than two-ways. Some designs add one or more extra woofers, though multiple woofer, or midranges don't increase the "ways" of a speaker--a speaker with two woofers, one midrange, and one tweeter is still a three-way speaker. Multidriver speakers are usually pricier than speakers with fewer drivers.

Low-profile on-wall speakers are the perfect sonic solution for wall-mounted plasma and flat-panel TVs. Some models are designed to visually complement wall-mounted TVs. On-wall speakers can also be a better-sounding alternative to in-wall speakers. For apartment dwellers, on-wall speakers free up floor space.

Most lower-priced speakers use spring-loaded connectors, which may not provide the most secure grip on the wires. Binding posts are better and work with bare wire leads, spades (U-shaped connectors), or handiest of all, banana jacks (bowed, banana-shaped male jacks). You can get banana jacks at specialty audio stores or your neighborhood Radio Shack.

Some higher-end speakers have biwire capability--two sets of female connectors. One set of connectors are for the tweeter, and another set hooks up to the woofer; many cable manufacturers offer special biwire cables. Biwiring may produce slightly better sound with more detail and higher-definition bass than the standard single-wire method.

Question: Multibrand matching--can I use my old speakers and new ones together in a surround system?

Mixing a different brand of surround speaker or subwoofer with your stereo speakers might be a risky proposition. Center speakers are the trickiest; mismatching the left-center-right speakers may result in jarring timbre shifts when the sound is panned across the front three speakers. Matching surround speakers is less critical, but in any case, try to arrange a home audition.

Question: Unibrand matching--do all JBL speakers go together? Can I match big towers and small surrounds?

Chances are same-brand speakers of a given vintage will sonically match, but when in doubt, check with the company's customer service people. And sure, you can match large and small speakers in one system.

Question: What's the lowdown on subwoofer matching?

Matching subwoofer to satellites is in some ways the easiest chore. The safest bet is to stick with the same brand. One rule of thumb is to mate small sats with small subs; if the sats have 4-inch or smaller woofers, better stick with a fairly small sub with an 8-inch woofer. Larger sats will do their best with larger subs that have 10- or 12-inch woofers.

If you're going to listen to more music than watch DVDs, focus your speaker budget on the best left-/right-front speakers you can afford: 30 to 40 percent of the whole enchilada up front. When the balance shifts over to more DVDs than music, distribute the budget equally over the 5.1 or 6.1 speakers.

Infinity Primus 360

First, matching the treble/midrange/bass balance of the center channel to the front speakers is key, and secondly, if the left/right speakers are fairly large, try to get the largest possible center speaker. Try not to rely on the sub to provide the bass for the center speaker. Small center speakers always sound, well, small.

NHT SC-1

There are two types of surround designs:

1. Monopole
The conventional surround speaker looks like a standard satellite speaker. These monopole speakers aim the sound straight ahead. Most HTIBs and entry-level speaker packages use this type of surround speaker. They will also work well in higher-end systems and SACD/DVD-Audio-oriented music-surround systems.

2. Dipole/bipole

Speaker with this type of design pushes sound out to the sides. Their distinctive V-shaped front panels make them easy to identify. These speakers create a more diffuse surround sound than the monopoles. They're best suited to DVD movies and less desirable for multichannel music.

Dipole speaker

Some subwoofers are better suited to providing home-theater oomph than musical bass. Home-theater bombast can be more of a quantity-over-quality issue, but some very "musical" subs lack the gravitas necessary for maximum home-theater impact. Of course, models that excel on both tend to be the most expensive.

JBL PB12

Before you buy any speaker wire, place the speakers and the receiver in the positions where they're likely to wind up, then carefully measure the distances. Remember to measure up and over door frames or windows. Just to be on the safe side, add at least two extra feet to each cable run; coming up short is no fun, and most stores won't allow you to return cut-to-length cables.

In most cases, standard zip cord, available in any hardware store, will do nicely. If you need to run long (more than 20 foot) lengths between the receiver and the speakers, try to get at least 16-gauge wire (the lower the number, the thicker the wire). Specialty brands of speaker wire are more expensive but may deliver slightly better sound quality.