By
CNET Staff
Feb 22, 2008
URL:
http://asia.cnet.com/hd-world/0,3800011581,62012957,00.htm
Whether you want a new bedroom set or a massive home-theater centerpiece, our CNET editors' guide gives you the full picture on shopping for a new TV. To sort TVs in CNET Asia's database by price range, check out this list.
1. Your budget range
Pricing parameters
Televisions are expensive beasts, but they fall into a few distinct price categories. Here's a cheat sheet that will help better align the set of your dreams with the reality of your bank account. Note that these prices reflect the latest street/online price as of this writing.
| What you'll pay |
What you'll get |
| Less than US$300 |
 |
Curved tubes: up to 32 inches
Flat tubes: up to 27 inches
Flat-panel LCD: up to 20 inches
|
| US$300 to US$500 |
 |
Curved tubes: up to 36 inches
Flat tubes: up to 32 inches
Flat-panel LCDs: up to 27 inches
|
| US$500 to US$750 |
 |
Wide-screen tubes: 30 inches
Flat tubes: up to 36 inches
Flat-panel LCDs: up to 32 inches
|
| US$750 to US$1,000 |
 |
Wide-screen tubes: 34 inches
Flat-panel LCDs: up to 42 inches
Plasma TVs: up to 42 inches
CRT rear-projection TVs: up to 52 inches
DLP, LCD, LCoS rear-projection TVs: up to 50 inches
|
| US$1,000 to US$1,500 |
 |
Flat-panel LCDs: up to 46 inches
Plasma TVs: 50 inches
LCD rear-projection: up to 60 inches
DLP, LCD, LCoS rear-projection TVs: up to 56 inches
|
| US$1,500 to US$3,000 |
 |
Flat-panel LCDs: up to 52 inches
Plasma TVs: up to 60 inches
DLP and LCoS rear-projection TVs: up to 70 inches
|
| More than US$3,000 |
 |
Flat-panel LCD: up to 70 inches
Plasma TVs: up to 103 inches
DLP rear-projection TVs: up to 73 inches
|
2. Size up your screen
After you have your budget squared away, you need to decide how large of a screen you want. Usually, the largest screens cost the most, but regardless, the TV should deliver the right-size picture for where you'll sit relative to the screen. Sitting closer to a smaller TV means you won't have to spend as much on a big screen. But if you sit too close, the picture will look poor. See the charts below for recommended seating distances per screen size for both 4:3 and wide-screen TVs.
Regular TV-viewing distances
Most viewers feel comfortable sitting away from the set at a distance that's between three and six times the width of the screen. The following chart can give you a rough estimate of the minimum and maximum viewing distances for regular 4:3 televisions.
| 4:3 TV diagonal screen size |
Min. viewing distance (in feet) |
Max. viewing distance (in feet) |
| 13 |
2.6 |
5.2 |
| 19 |
3.8 |
7.6 |
| 20 |
4 |
8 |
| 24 |
4.8 |
9.6 |
| 27 |
5.4 |
10.8 |
| 32 |
6.4 |
12.8 |
| 36 |
7.2 |
14.8 |
| 40 |
8 |
16 |
Wide-screen TV-viewing distances
You'll notice that we said regular televisions. Wide-screen televisions showing high-resolution DVD and HDTV look better than regular sets, allowing you to sit closer and experience a more immersive, theaterlike picture.
With wide-screen sets showing DVD or HDTV, you can sit as close as 1.5 times the screen's diagonal measurement and still not notice much of a loss in quality, while sitting farther away than three times the screen size means you're likely to miss out on the immersive feel. Here's a rundown of minimum and maximum recommended viewing distances for wide-screen sets.
| 16:9 TV diagonal screen size |
Min. viewing distance (in feet) |
Max. viewing distance (in feet) |
| 26 |
3.3 |
6.5 |
| 30 |
3.8 |
7.6 |
| 34 |
4.3 |
8.5 |
| 42 |
5.3 |
10.5 |
| 47 |
5.9 |
11.8 |
| 50 |
6.3 |
12.5 |
| 55 |
6.9 |
12.8 |
| 60 |
7.5 |
15 |
| 65 |
8.1 |
16.2 |
Size and your room
Generally, 30-inch and smaller sets are great for bedrooms or guest rooms but too small for the main living room. Sets with bigger screens are large enough for the whole family to enjoy and will probably be too much for most small bedrooms. Remember that tube TVs are also fairly deep and get bulkier as the screen size increases. You'll want to pick out a deep-enough spot for the TV so that it doesn't protrude awkwardly into the room.
If you're mounting the set inside an entertainment center, be sure it fits in every dimension; also, leave an inch or two on all sides so that the TV has enough ventilation. If you're getting a bigger set, you may want to consider a dedicated stand; many TV makers sell matching stands that increase the aesthetic appeal of their hefty boxes.
Screen sizes and display types
Most tube televisions have screens that measure between 13 and 36 inches diagonally. Above that, TVs switch from standard tubes to rear-projection or flat-panel models. Flat-panel LCDs can range anywhere from 5 inches to more than 60 inches diagonal, plasmas are between 37 and 103 inches, and rear-projection sets start at 37 inches and go to as large as 73 inches. These different TV types have their own strengths and drawbacks.
3. HDTV boot camp
Since the first HDTVs appeared in 1998, high-definition television has been on the mind of every TV buyer. The big question is whether now is the time to pay a few hundred to a few thousand dollars more and take the plunge on an HDTV set. We can't answer that question for you, but we can provide some basic information that may help you decide. But first, if you're completely new to HDTV, you may want to check out HDTV 101: A beginner's guide.
Analog, digital, and HDTV
Analog: An analog TV cannot display progressive-scan DVD or HDTV. It can show only standard-definition programs such as those found on regular TV, cable, or satellite--including digital cable and DirecTV or Dish Network.
Digital: The words "digital television" are used as a generic term for SDTV, EDTV, or HDTV.
SDTV: A standard-definition television is an analog television equipped with a built-in ATSC tuner (see below), which allows it to receive digital TV broadcasts. It will display a picture from these broadcasts, but HDTV shows won't look nearly as detailed as they would on a true HDTV.
EDTV: This stands for Enhanced-Definition TV, and usually it describes a television that can display HDTV signals but doesn't have enough resolution to really do them justice. Most often it applies to plasma TVs and denotes 852x480 pixels (more info).
HDTV: High-definition televisions, or HDTVs, can display standard TV, progressive-scan DVD, and HDTV signals. They're by far the most common type of digital television.
EDTV monitor or HDTV monitor: Describes a television that lacks a built-in tuner of any kind. These sets still work perfectly well with external tuners, including HD-compatible satellite and cable boxes
HDTV tuners

Samsung's SIR-T451 external ATSC tuner
Over the air: By law, as of March 1, 2007, almost all televisions should include a built-in tuner (called HDTV, digital, or ATSC tuners) that can receive high-definition programs over the air by simply connecting an antenna. If your HDTV doesn't have such a tuner, you'll also need to connect an external tuner (or cable or satellite box) to watch high-definition programming. External over-the-air HDTV tuners currently cost at least US$150.
FCC tuner mandate: You may have heard that all TVs will have to be HDTVs by a certain date. That's not technically correct. The FCC has mandated that as of March 1, 2007, all new TV and video products imported into the U.S. or shipped to retailers that include an analog (NTSC) tuner need to have a digital ATSC tuner as well. There's a loophole though: if the product contains no tuner whatsoever--for TVs, this means it's a "monitor"--then the mandate does not apply. As a result of the mandate, nearly all televisions sold after that date should be ready for the analog switch-off.
Analog TV broadcast switch-off: In December 2005, the US Senate passed a budget bill that calls for over-the-air television stations to cease their analog broadcasts by February 17, 2009. After that date, TVs and other gear with old-style NTSC tuners will be incapable of receiving over-the-air broadcasts. Part of the government's quandary is that the switch-off would cause thousands of TVs to go dark and would deprive many lower-income viewers of their only source of television. To address this issue, lawmakers propose to subsidize converter boxes that would allow people to watch the new digital broadcasts on their old analog TVs. **The subsidy currently calls for US$40 coupons to be given to households who want to buy the estimated US$50 to US$70 boxes. Given the slow progress over the last nine years since the introduction of digital and HDTV, we wouldn't be surprised to hear of more changes before 2009.
Cable and satellite: The FCC's plans for ATSC tuners have nothing to do with HDTV over cable and satellite. Subscribers to pay TV services can simply get a set-top box that tunes HDTV channels, plug it into their HDTV-ready sets, and watch HDTV.
Some new HDTVs are digital cable ready (DCR), meaning they can tune digital cable channels, including HDTV if the cable provider has HDTV channels, without needing an external cable box. To use a DCR television, you'll need to get a special access card from your cable provider, called a CableCard. Unlike actual digital cable boxes, current DCR TVs can't do video-on-demand at all, and you must pick up a phone if you want to order pay-per-view programs. Using the card with some sets also means you can't access the electronic program guide (EPG), although many new DCR HDTVs include a third-party EPG, such as the TV Guide system, as a substitute.
HDTV resolutions
Resolution, or picture detail, is the main reason why HDTV programs look so good. The standard-definition programming most of us watch today has at most 480 visible lines of detail, whereas HDTV has as many as 1,080. HDTV looks sharper and clearer than regular TV by a wide margin, especially on big-screen televisions. It actually comes in two different resolutions, called 1080i and 720p. One is not necessarily better than the other; 1080i has more lines and pixels, but 720p is a progressive-scan format that should deliver a smoother image that stays sharper during motion. Another format is also becoming better known: 1080p, which combines the superior resolution of 1080i with the progressive-scan smoothness of 720p. True 1080p content is scarce outside of Blu-ray, HD DVD and the latest video games, however, and none of the major networks has announced 1080p broadcasts. Check out our comparison chart to see how HDTV stacks up against standard TV and progressive-scan DVD, and go to HDTV resolution explained for more detail.
| Name |
Resolution |
HDTV? |
Wide-screen? |
Progressive-scan? |
| 1080p |
1,920x1,080 |
Y |
Y |
Y |
| 1080i |
1,920x1,080 |
Y |
Y |
N |
| 720p |
1,280x720 |
Y |
Y |
Y |
| Wide-screen 480p (DVD, EDTV) |
852x480 |
N |
Y |
Y |
| Regular TV |
Up to 480 lines |
N |
N |
N |
Regular TV and DVD on an HDTV
Regular TV on an HDTV: Given that converted TV doesn't really leverage the full potential of a new high-definition television, you may wonder why people buy HDTVs today at all. One big reason is because of DVD. HDTVs can make DVD, a very high-quality source, look spectacular. Progressive-scan DVD players have their own internal processors that are generally superior to the ones inside most digital sets. Mating a progressive-scan DVD with an HDTV will give you the best picture you can get outside of HDTV itself.
DVD on an HDTV: HDTVs can make DVD, a very high-quality source, look spectacular. Most of them will probably tell you it's because of DVD. HDTVs can make DVD, a very high-quality source, look spectacular. Progressive-scan DVD players have their own internal processors that are generally superior to the ones inside most digital sets. Mating a prog-scan DVD with an HDTV will give you the best picture you can get outside of HDTV itself.
Your HDTV tomorrow
If you buy an HDTV today, you can be fairly certain it won't become obsolete anytime in the next few years. There is a possibility, however, that Hollywood studios will enforce some sort of copy protection on analog HDTV connections; a move is underway to "plug the analog hole." Your safest bet is to get an HDTV with a DVI/HDCP or HDMI connection (see Inputs and outputs). They're the most future-ready HDTV connectors currently available.
4. Wide-screen vs. 4:3
Television screens today come in two shapes. The most familiar one is called 4:3, which represents four inches of width for every three inches of height. You can also buy wide-screen, or 16:9, televisions, which take the same shape as many movies. Wide-screen sets cost more per square inch of screen than standard TVs, and most people watch more regular TV than DVDs and movies, so 4:3 sets are the most popular choice. Almost all large flat-panel and rear-projection TVs are wide screen, however, so it's just a matter of time before 16:9 becomes the most popular choice.
If you have $700 or more budgeted toward your next TV, you should seriously consider going wide. With huge numbers of anamorphic (enhanced for wide-screen) DVDs and the appearance of more wide-screen TV and HDTV shows, there's plenty of wide-screen content out there, and even more will appear in the future.
Black bars and unused screen
Many people choosing between 16:9 and 4:3 TVs wonder how much picture they'll be missing when viewing differently shaped programs. DVD and other wide-screen video shown on a standard TV have black bars, known as letterbox bars, above and below the wide-screen image. Conversely, regular programs shown on a wide-screen TV have windowbox bars on either side of the picture.
Screen size calculator
To find out exactly how much picture you'll be missing with either kind of TV, check out our calculator below. Just enter the diagonal screen size and aspect ratio of the set you're considering, then hit Calculate.
Wide-screen TVs and 4:3 programs
All wide-screen TVs have ways to stretch, crop, or zoom the regular 4:3 image so that it fills the screen. These methods distort the image somewhat, but many wide-screen TV owners prefer looking at slightly stretched people rather than windowbox bars. Here's a quick rundown of the different names for selectable aspect-ratio modes found on 16:9 sets:
 |
|
Normal or 4:3: Places windowbox bars on either side of the 4:3 screen. |
| |
 |
|
Zoom or Enlarge: Magnifies the entire image, eliminating the windowbox bars but cropping the top and bottom of the image. Often, more than one level of zoom is provided. |
| |
 |
|
Wide or Full: Used for native 16:9 content such as that found on DVDs. With 4:3 content, such as regular TV, it stretches the image horizontally, making people look shorter and fatter. |
| |
 |
|
Panorama, TheaterWide, or Natural: TV makers have many names for modes that compromise between stretching and zooming to fill the screen. Some stretch the sides of the image more than the middle, so people in the center of the screen look correct. Some crop a little so that they don't have to stretch as much. |
5. Key features and connectivity options
Convenience features, inputs, and even the sound system are all factors to consider in your next TV purchase. Many TV makers differentiate their baseline models from step-up versions by including all kinds of add-ons, so check our list to help determine whether that "loaded" set you're considering really has the features that matter.
Picture-in-picture (PIP)
What it is: PIP lets you watch a second program in a little window. More-elaborate versions can resize the window, move it around the screen, create still or multiple still images, or simply divide the screen into two same-size pictures, often called "picture-outside-picture" (POP).
What it isn't: PIP has a dirty little secret, though: If you use an external tuner such as a cable box or a satellite receiver, you can watch only one program at once. If some of your channels are unscrambled, you can watch those on the second window, and you can usually watch other sources such as VHS or DVD on it, as well. But even with two-tuner PIP, a single cable/satellite box will prevent you from watching two live scrambled channels simultaneously unless the box itself has two-tuner PIP.
Universal remote
What it is: Plenty of TVs now come with universal remotes that can control other A/V gear. Usually, they work with a cable or satellite box, and many can also command DVD players, VCRs, or even A/V receivers. If you like watching movies in the dark, you should look for a remote with backlit or glowing buttons.
What it isn't: Not every universal remote can control everything. Some, known as unibrand remotes, can control only the same brand of equipment as the TV itself. Most are preprogrammed with a set list of codes, and if the codes don't match your older or off-brand gear, you're out of luck. A few are learning models that can accept the IR codes from your other remotes and, thus, control any kind of gear.
TV sound
What it is: Almost every TV sold today has MTS stereo reception and stereo speakers, which provide much better sound than a single mono speaker. When TV makers list readings of 5 watts per channel or higher, it means the set has a respectable audio system for a TV. Some sets with simulated surround provide a semblance of the effect of rear speakers.
What it isn't: No TV can compete with a dedicated audio system, so even if your set has lots of watts and simulated surround sound, you should consider a home-theater audio system for maximum impact. If you have such a system, the TV's sound becomes a moot point.
Tuner extras
What it is: Channel-surfing modes, favorite-channel lists, and other features that rely on your TV's built-in tuner can make switching channels a lot more efficient--as long as you use that tuner.
What it isn't: The problem is, many people use external tuners such as a cable or satellite box to change channels. If you're one of those people, tuner extras are all but useless to you.
Inputs and outputs
Perhaps the single most confusing item on a TV spec sheet is the forest of inputs and outputs used to hook up the set to other equipment. The following trail of breadcrumbs, arranged in order of video quality, should help put you on the right connectivity path.
 |
Jack |
 |
Cable |
 |
Name |
 |
Typical use |
 |
Level of video quality |
 |
 |
|
 |
|
 |
RF
aka radio frequency; antenna; cable; screw type; F-pin |
 |
Antennae, VCRs, cable and satellite boxes |
 |
Lowest, Highest (digital) for HDTV tuners |
 |
 |
 |
|
 |
|
 |
Composite video
aka yellow video; video; A/V (when combined with audio jacks) |
 |
Cable and satellite boxes, VCRs, DVD players, game consoles |
 |
Low |
 |
 |
 |
|
 |
|
 |
S-Video
aka DIN 4 |
 |
Cable and satellite boxes, S-VHS VCRs, DVD players, game consoles |
 |
Medium |
 |
 |
 |
|
 |
|
 |
Component-video
aka component; Y, Pb, Pr; Y, Cb, Cr; broadband component; 1080i; 720p; HDTV |
 |
HD cable and satellite boxes, DVD players, HDTV tuners, Blu-ray and HD DVD players, game consoles, other HD sources |
 |
High |
 |
 |
 |
|
 |
|
 |
RGB
Connections can also be made through RCA or BNC-type connectors, and adapters are available between all of them
aka PC, computer, VGA; 15-pin D-sub; RGB-HV |
 |
Computers, video processors |
 |
High |
 |
 |
 |
|
 |
|
 |
FireWire
aka IEEE 1394; iLink |
 |
some HDTV tuners, D-VHS VCRs |
 |
Highest (digital) |
 |
 |
 |
|
 |
|
 |
DVI-D with HDCP
aka DVI-D; Digital Visual Interface; High-bandwidth Digital Content Protection |
 |
Computers; older HD cable and satellite boxes, HDTV tuners and DVD players |
 |
Highest (digital) |
 |
 |
 |
|
 |
|
 |
HDMI
FAQ
aka High-Definition Multimedia Interface |
 |
HD cable and satellite boxes, DVD players, HDTV tuners, Blu-ray and HD DVD players, game consoles, computers, other HD sources |
 |
Highest (digital) |
 |
A quick note about switching: If you have multiple sources going into your TV, an A/V receiver with switching capabilities can really ease the hassle. The most convenient option is to leave your TV set to one input and have the receiver switch all other sources into that input. Many receivers have a feature called "video upconversion", which often allows them to send every source, whether it's composite, S-Video, or component video, through the component video or HDMI output. If you have a lot of gear, they can make switching between sources much more convenient.
6. Judging picture quality
The most difficult thing to judge when shopping for a TV is how good the picture looks. Good is a subjective term, so relying on the judgment of reviewers (such as CNET) may not get you exactly what you want. Then again, many reviewers scoff at the kinds of pictures that impress TV shoppers in the store. In this section, we'll offer some tips on become a more discerning viewer and what separates good pictures from the rest.
The wall of tubes
Most electronics stores show their televisions on a big wall, fed by the same video signal split a hundred times. Although bright lights, suspect salespeople, and a lack of remote controls will probably make any picture-quality judgment difficult, here are a few things to look for on the wall.
- Don't fall for brightness. Almost every television on the sales floor is set to the brightest picture settings, so try to get the salesperson to reduce the controls of the TVs you're comparing. You want the pictures--not necessarily the controls--to be roughly equal in brightness, contrast, and color.
- Go out of the light. Few living rooms are as well lit as the sales floor, so see if the salesperson can reduce the amount of light shining on the picture. If nothing else, try to shade the screen if light is shining directly on it.
- BYO DVD. If you have a DVD that you're familiar with, see if you can use it instead of the TV signal that's normally shown. Aside from HDTV, Blu-ray, and HD DVD, DVD provides the best picture a television can display, so it makes for a good reference from which to judge.
- Try all the picture modes. Many sets come with numerous picture presets, such as Movie and Sports, that radically affect how the image appears. After you peruse the manually adjusted pictures, try the different presets and modes to see which ones look best.
Features that affect picture quality
Normal analog TVs, as opposed to digital TVs, have just a few factors that affect picture quality. Look for these features or characteristics and disregard other features that sound good on the surface but in reality are just marketing ploys. Naturally, there are other important factors we can't cover here, but this should get you started.
- Comb filter. If a television does not have a comb filter, its resolution will be limited to about half the full potential of DVD. Most sets with comb filters can provide all of the resolution of DVD. The types of comb filters you'll see advertised, in order of lower to higher quality, include two-line, three-line, digital, and 3D YC varieties. They provide incremental improvements in performance, especially in reducing rainbows that can appear in fine detail, such as a talking head's suit coat. Comb filters affect only composite-video or RF connections (see Inputs and outputs).

Color-temperature settings. Many televisions have presets for color temperature, which is basically the color of gray. A neutral gray is ideal, but most TVs have an extremely blue gray to make the picture brighter in the store. TVs with color-temperature presets allow you to choose the color of gray; generally, you'll want the reddest or lowest setting available.
- Fine color settings: Beyond color temperature presets, some televisions let you adjust the individual levels of red, green, and blue, which can really help fine-tune color temperature. Some sets also offer additional color controls that affect the primary and secondary colors.
- Backlight control: Many flat-panel LCDs have a control not found on other types of TV that lets you adjust the backlight, controlling the overall brightness of the picture. This control is very useful, especially when tuning the TV for dim-room viewing.
- Iris control: This is another type of control that affects the picture's overall brightness, but this time it's only found on projection TVs. Many TVs with an iris also include a mode that adjusts it automatically.
Calibration
You'll often see CNET reviews mention calibration or the ISF. When they review most televisions, our writers adjust the picture to achieve optimum quality in a dark room. Sometimes this involves accessing a so-called service menu that isn't available to the average user. The Imaging Science Foundation, or ISF, has a program that trains professionals to calibrate televisions, and for a few hundred dollars, you can retain an ISF professional to adjust your TV. In most TV reviews, CNET also posts the menu settings that our reviewer found ideal for that particular TV.
For best results with your own TV, outside of paying for a professional calibration, we recommend a calibration DVD to help you adjust the television. These discs, such as Ovation Software's Avia, Joe Kane's Video Essentials, and Sound & Vision's Home Theater Tune-Up, show you how to optimize your set within the limits of the standard user-accessible menus.
For more, check out "Picture perfect: HDTV tune-up tips."
7. Video gaming and computer tips
DVDs aren't the only non-TV content that's likely to be shown on the tube. Here are a few other pointers on what to look for in a television that'll do multimedia duty.
Game consoles
The sweet graphics of the Xbox, the PlayStation, and the GameCube, not to mention the Xbox 360, the PlayStation3, and the Wii, can take full advantage of high-end televisions, but even inexpensive sets do best with a few added features in the mix.
- Front-panel inputs. A set of A/V inputs on the front or side panel of a TV makes hooking up and disconnecting a game console--or a camcorder--much easier.
- Picture preset. Many TVs come with picture presets that affect the contrast, brightness, and other controls. Some presets crank those values sky-high to provide a more intense picture. If you like that bright image, check out sets with Game, Vivid, or Sports presets.
- S-Video inputs. Console graphics look best through better connections, so you should at least your hook up your game system via an S-Video connection instead of the standard composite-video cable that ships with the system.
- Component video inputs. For a big improvement in gaming video quality, step up to a TV with component video inputs. The downside is that you'll have to buy a special adapter and cables that run between $10 and $60. Some of these adapters also include connections for digital sound, but you'll need a home-theater system or a surround-sound setup with an optical digital connection and support for Dolby Digital sound to take advantage of the superior sonics.
- HDMI inputs: For now only the PlayStation3 has an HDMI output, providing the best-quality video connection to compatible HDTVs. In reality though, most people have a difficult time telling the difference between a picture delivered over component video and one that comes via HDMI.
- Burn-in. Some high-end TVs, namely plasma and CRT-based rear-projection sets, can become permanently scarred by very bright, stationary images that remain on the screen for a long time; think of a paused game or that constant score/life-bar/ammo-count graphic. However, we consider the danger of burn-in to be greatly exaggerated and plasmas and CRT-based RPTVs to be fine candidates for all but the heaviest gaming situations.
Computers
Today's televisions have plenty of connections and capabilities, and fixed-pixel displays usually make excellent computer monitors. If you want to use your TV as a big monitor for games, Web surfing, and other tasks, here are a few tips:
- Get S-Video at least. S-Video inputs will improve the look of the desktop on a TV, although it still won't look nearly as good as your standard monitor.
- 640x480 is the max. 640x480 is the max for tubes. You won't get a higher resolution than 640x480 with most tube televisions. DLP and LCD-based rear-projection TVs and flat-panel LCD and plasma televisions, on the other hand, can almost always display computer images at higher resolutions.
- VGA input = computer-friendly. Speaking of high-end TVs, if you're serious about using your set as a big monitor for standard software, look for a VGA-style RGB input, just like the kind your computer monitor uses (see Inputs and outputs for more). Digital DVI inputs are even better, and often you can use a TV's HDMI input with a special adapter and maybe a little tweaking to display images from your computer's DVI output.
8. Accessories and warranties
With any large purchase, the urge to accessorize can be overwhelming. Here are a few add-ons to consider, as well as some words on warranty and shipping concerns.
Accessories
- Cable requirements. In the store, you'll probably hear a salesperson tell you to get extra cables. That's because overpriced cables are one of the few areas where electronics stores can turn a big profit. In reality, cable quality matters very little, especially with digital cables such as HDMI. Since many stores don't even carry lower-priced cable alternatives, we recommend shopping for cables online and buying based on price from a vendor with a good return policy.
- Surge protector. We definitely recommend shielding your TV investment with some sort of surge protector. Don't believe the hype that a better protector will somehow improve video quality, but do choose a model with coaxial inputs and outputs for your cable or antenna.
- Furniture. Many TV makers produce matching stands for their larger TVs. If you like their style, they usually make setting up the TV a lot simpler. That's because you won't have to worry about your stand being able to support the TV or being the right height for comfortable viewing from the couch.
- Other room treatments. Watching TV in broad daylight will result in a washed-out picture. We recommend that any viewing room be equipped with curtains or other window treatments that can block out some light during the day and that the TV screen face away from the window. Try to keep room lighting from reflecting onto the screen. A low-wattage light placed behind the TV in an otherwise dark room can make an ideal viewing environment.
Extended warranties
The final question you'll be asked when buying a TV is generally, "Would you like an extended warranty with that?" Most savvy electronics shoppers will answer with a knee-jerk no. TVs are an exception however. With the numerous newer TV technologies becoming available and the high prices of HDTVs, it often makes perfect sense to spend a few hundred dollars extending the protection on your investment. You should still read the terms of the agreement carefully--the extended warranty should at least cover everything that the manufacturer's warranty does, just for a longer period, and may offer additional benefits such as preventative maintenance and free or low-cost repairs. Most extended warranties begin from the date of purchase and so may overlap the manufacturer's warranty. When deciding whether or not to purchase an extended warranty, the ultimate decision is whether the cost (usually US$200 to US$600 or more for a TV) is worth the coverage the warranty provides against whatever risk you expect the TV to be subjected to. That's a decision only you can make.
Manufacturer warranties
The standard warranty covers parts for one year and labor for 90 days. Some manufacturer warranties have separate time frames for the picture element--such as the tube, which is often covered for two years--and the rest of the TV. High-end TVs, especially plasmas, often have a one-year labor warranty. Some manufacturers also offer in-home service on more expensive and larger models that are difficult to ship.
Buying online
An increasing number of TV makers are cracking down on "unauthorized" retailers of their sets, especially online, and some will not honor warranties on products purchased from such dealers. See the Web site of your set's manufacturer before you purchase a TV online for its policy on unauthorized retailers.
If you decide to buy your TV online, make sure you choose a vendor with a solid return policy. There are many cut-rate vendors out there that don't allow any returns on televisions--an exception to their standard return policies. Also, be prepared for a significant shipping fee. Consider how to get it through the door and set it up in your room or on a stand; big TVs often require more than one strong person to lift them. Some online and many brick-and-mortar dealers will move the TV into your house and even set it up for you, but it usually costs extra.