Buying a point-and-shoot can be a taxing affair, especially for those who are unfamiliar with cameras. Consumers are bombarded with so much information these days that it can be difficult for them to sift out the useful bits. Some manufacturers will emphasize impressive-sounding features, but in reality these functions may not help produce superior image quality. The salesperson at your local retailer may not be of much help either, since they are probably not savvy with photographic terms, and are often more concerned about meeting sales figures. To help you separate fluff from fact, here's a list of commonly used terms for point-and-shoots which you should know about.
)
In the world of digital imaging, optical zoom is the only way to go. The difference between optical and digital zoom is that the former shifts the lens to achieve different focal lengths without compromising the image quality. However, digital zoom crops the image and increases the resolution electronically, which typically results in noisy pictures with little details. So, when buying a point-and-shoot, look out for optical zoom only, rather than the combination of optical and digital, as advertised by some camera makers.
Super-high ISO sensitivities
)
Low-light photography with a point-and-shoot can be difficult as there are limited exposure controls, which is probably why some brands increase the ISO sensitivities on their shooters. However, by doing so, this produces plenty of digital artifact which dots the photograph, making the picture look unsightly. For most compact cameras, the image quality starts to degrade after ISO 800. To get around this problem, use a lower ISO sensitivity and activate the onboard flash to illuminate the subject. If you're using a slow shutter speed, employ a tripod to stabilize the camera.
When the ISO sensitivity is
increased, the noise level gets
bumped up as well.
Over here at CNET Asia, we believe in only optical or sensor-shift image stabilizer (IS). With regard to its electronic cousin, we usually steer clear of it. It is because this mode bumps up the ISO sensitivity on shooters so the shutter speed is increased. But by doing so, it is introducing more undesirable noise to the picture. Some brands may combine this feature with optical/mechanical IS, but there is usually an option to switch the electronic IS off and rely on hardware stabilization instead.
Some point-and-shoots allow you
to adjust the aperture settings.
The information is displayed on the LCD
Savvy shutterbugs will know that the aperture not only controls how much light enters the camera, it also affects the depth of field (how sharp or blur the foreground/background is). Some point-and-shoots' manual aperture control merely reduces the exposure electronically (lighten or brighten the picture) rather than physically adjusting the aperture opening in the lens. To see whether the shooter has authentic aperture control or not, set different F values and look at the lens when you press the shutter. If the size of the opening varies, it means the blades are adjusted physically--this will produce better depth-of-field results.
Full HD resolution measures 1,920 x 1,080 pixels, which is about two times smaller than the actual resolution of a 12-megapixel picture that stretches 4,000 x 3,000 pixels across. This mode is good if you are certain that the snaps are intended for viewing only on compatible displays such as an HDTV or digital photo frame. We think it is always wise to take pictures in full resolution and crop them on the computer later. When editing a picture, remember to use the Save As option so you'll have a high-resolution copy for printing large photographs should the need arises. Tags: Optical Zoom, Sales, Camera, CNET Networks Inc., hardware
